Long distance dress designing
From Chile to Chesham: a story of sewing via Skype and what’s possible when it’s for ‘family’.
I wouldn’t normally consider trying to make a wedding dress for someone on the other side of the world. The fit of a dress is so important, and even with a set of measurements, the variations in shape within those measurements could lead to a garment that just didn't sit right, and I wouldn't be happy to put my name to it.
However, there are always exceptions to the rule! Joey is not only my daughter’s best friend, but also my best friend's daughter, so when she asked if I would consider making her wedding dress, even though she lived in Chile, how could I say no? In fairness, I knew that I would be able to be 'hands-on' in the final week, as the wedding was taking place in Chesham, so last-minute adjustments would be possible; but still, most of the work would have to be done remotely.
To start, Joey emailed pictures of the sort of style she was interested in; I sent her some drawings and after various exchanges, we settled on a design from which to work. She sent me her measurements, and I asked her for a favourite bra that she liked the shape of. I adjusted my dress dummy (Henrietta) to the measurements, dressed her in the bra and padded it out to shape (Henrietta has very strangely shaped boobs!).
Then, I cut the pattern and made a toile (a mock-up of the dress in a cheap fabric -- I usually recycle old sheets). I dressed Henrietta in the toile and had a Skype consultation with Joey to make sure she was happy with the shape. So far, so good!
The next step was to make the internal structure of the bodice in a firm fabric, which would be boned and on which the final dress would be constructed. I sourced some satin and lace samples for Joey to choose from. Fortunately, Joey's Mum, Gill, was going to Chile to attend the Chilean wedding ceremony a few weeks before Joey came back to the UK for the church wedding, which gave me an opportunity to send the samples, and for Joey to try on the bodice structure and the toile. I gave Gill a quick lesson on how to do a fitting before she went!
The first few days in Chile were stressful because the suitcase containing the samples and toile got lost at the airport. When it was finally, thankfully, located, Joey and her Mum were able to go through the fabric samples, trying different satins with a selection of laces over the top. Joey said how important it was to be able to see and feel the actual fabrics and it helped them both envision what the dress would look like. They went for a delicate, lightly beaded lace from Harringtons over a champagne-coloured silk satin, which perfectly complemented Joey's complexion. The final choice of lace required a slight change in the design of the dress, which is all part of how a bespoke dress evolves.
When Gill was back from Chile, I could order the chosen fabric and get on with making the dress as far as possible. Joey and I had a few more Skype calls along the way, one particularly to select a suitable brooch for the sash. The one we both liked best for shape, colour and size was providentially called 'Johanna' -- Joey's full name.
Joey returned to the UK a week before the wedding. The dress was nearly complete, but I'd left the side seams, shoulder seams and hem unfinished so that I could tweak the fit. Joey also requested that I made sure the dress could be bustled up effectively so that she and her husband could perform a traditional Chilean dance at the reception.
I made the dresses for the three bridesmaids as well, which was also a challenge that had to be discussed and refined over Skype. One bridesmaid (my daughter) was 7 months pregnant and another had just had a baby, so the dress needed to be versatile, for different shapes and easy for breast-feeding. The third bridesmaid arrived from Australia the same day as Joey returned to the UK. I think they all came for the fittings almost as soon as they had landed!
It was a busy week, but all was finished on time and the wedding was a beautiful occasion.
Oh, I made Gill's mother-of-the-bride dress too, but there were no complications there!
Joey and Jaime
“Clem made my wedding dress and three bridesmaids dresses. She did an incredible job - not only did she go through the whole process of ideas, designs, fabrics and fittings with me, but also made it all possible despite me being on the other side of the world! My dress was more beautiful than I could have imagined - it was absolutely perfect. And my bridesmaids’ dresses looked exactly as I wanted them to! I would recommend Clem to anyone! I really appreciated her ideas and creativity as well as obvious technical skills.” - Joey
Photography Mark Sisley
Slideshow photos by Chris Short
If you would like to find out more about having a bespoke dress made, visit my Bespoke Creations page and get in touch to discuss your ideas.